5 Questions: Raymond Chen

Raymond Chen operates the sushi concession at Foodtown in Cold Spring. 

How did you end up becoming a sushi chef?
I grew up in China near Shanghai and moved to the U.S. when I was 7 years old, but only for a few months. My parents had to work so hard, they didn’t have time to take care of me. So I was sent back to China and returned to the U.S. when I was 16. We didn’t eat sushi when I was growing up; we ate a lot of rice. Making sushi isn’t difficult but it takes a long time to learn. Years ago, I didn’t have a job, so in the summer I learned how to make it from my friends. I’ve been doing it for more than 20 years.

What sushi is most popular here?
Probably vegetables, because they’re healthy. Avocado with cucumber is popular, as well as salmon and avocado. Popular fish include tuna, salmon and hamachi, or yellowtail in English. My favorite is salmon with avocado. I also like it with avocado and eel.

Is there a proper way to eat sushi?
I always use my fingers. Some people use chopsticks or a fork. A lot of people like to add soy sauce, but I prefer the natural taste. I don’t like a lot of sauces. The fish is usually eaten raw, but it can be cooked. With pepper tuna, I sear it. Don’t leave sushi for tomorrow. Eat it fresh. I never sell sushi for tomorrow, although sushi with just vegetables is OK for two days. 

Where do you go for sushi?
I’ve gone to Japan. I liked it there, but they didn’t have avocado. It probably costs $20 for an avocado there! They use a lot of fish — very fresh fish, which I liked. And the shrimp were still jumping. Usually I’d say I go to Manhattan restaurants for sushi, but I did that for 25 years. Sometimes I like different foods. I like steak!

Does the concession keep you busy?
Yes. I need a day off. I have been super busy. Some days are almost 14 hours. I try to do six days a week. I’m just one person, the space is too small for two people. I never know what day will be busiest — sometimes Mondays. Fridays are always a little busy. Foodtown is always busy on Saturdays, but people who are going hiking don’t want sushi.