Please excuse me if this column often seems like a meteorological report. It’s hard for our emotional, physical, spiritual and culinary lives not to be influenced by the vagaries and humors of the seasons. We react to variations in climate and light in the kitchen and at the table, and I’m sure this is not driven strictly by what’s available at the market.
Now that the season for summer produce and herbal grace is over, the pantry is heartier — kale and its brethren, earthy roots and the first “winter” squash, and it feels right.
The seasonal MVP is butternut squash. Relatively inexpensive, low-calorie, high-fiber and adaptable, it is a superfood. It can be roasted for stews, soups, salads or curries, or included in risottos or pasta dishes. A personal favorite is modified Bolognese ragù that substitutes roasted butternut squash for the usual tomatoes.
Among its other characteristics is an affinity for spices (dried and ground seeds, roots, barks, berries) that can wake the senses as the days get darker. Butternut squash plays well with other cold-season staples: root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, sweet potatoes and onions; earthy nuts, particularly hazelnuts and chestnuts; and fall fruits like pears, quinces and apples.
The genesis of this recipe was my dream of a puréed spiced butternut, apple and chestnut soup. But, as the gods of corporate food distribution have decreed that chestnut availability be limited to a tight holiday window, compromises must be made.
Japanese yams (aka Japanese sweet potatoes or satsumaimo) are tubers with purple-red skin and firm white flesh that are creamy when cooked and have an appealing sweetness. Despite the name, Japanese yams are mainly grown in South America and are available at Nature’s Pantry in Fishkill. Nutritionally, they are a winner, featured prominently in the lore of the “blue zone,” where people are thought to live longer. (Note to self: Remember these for the traditional holiday parsnip and/or pear and potato purée.)
As for apples, green varieties such as Granny Smiths are preferred to lighten up the squash and yams. Milk or cream adds creaminess to what I’m calling a bisque.
The main departure is freshly ground cardamom instead of the cinnamon commonly suggested for butternut squash and apples. Because I was planning to share the test batch with my dairy-free neighbor, I substituted Elmhurst Milked Hazelnuts (also found at Nature’s Pantry), and unsweetened almond milk would do nearly as well.
A final grating of nutmeg is probably unnecessary but seems ritually appropriate for this opening salvo of feasting season.
Spiced Butternut Squash & Apple Bisque
Makes about 1½ to 2 quarts; serves 4 to 6
- 1½ to 2 pounds butternut squash, peeled and seeded, cut into 1-inch dice
- Olive oil
- Salt and pepper
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 large shallots, peeled and chopped roughly
- 2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and quartered, cut into about ¼-inch slices
- 1 quart organic chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 to 1½ pound Japanese yams, peeled, cut into 1-inch dice
- 1 to 1¼ teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
- ½ to 1 cup milk, heavy cream or non-dairy substitute (nut-based milks or creams suggested)
- (Optional crème fraîche for finishing)
- ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- Snipped chives and roasted pumpkin seeds for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees; set rack in top third of oven. Grease or line a half-sheet pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, toss the butternut squash with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss again and spread evenly on the prepared sheet pan. Roast in the hot oven for 40 to 45 minutes, tossing about halfway through, until fully cooked and lightly browned. Reserve.
2. Melt butter in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Sweat and sauté the shallots until softened; add the sliced apples and cook until just soft. Add the stock and when it comes to a low boil, add the cubed yams. Once the pot boils again, reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Add roasted squash and cook for another 20 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and allow to cool long enough to process in batches in a blender or food processor, reserving purée in a large bowl. Once the bisque is processed, return it to the (cleaned) saucepan or Dutch oven. Reheat and add the cardamom; cook 5 minutes longer. Add milk, cream or non-dairy substitute and heat for a few minutes.
4. Finish with freshly grated nutmeg. Serve in individual bowls, with a dollop of crème fraîche if desired. Garnish with snipped chives and toasted pumpkin seeds. Enjoy with warm crusty bread.
