In nearly every culture — Indian, Asian, African, Hispanic — beans and rice constitute “a complete currency,” says Brigid Washington, author of Caribbean Flavors for Every Season. The combination is indisputably nutritious, supplying much of the same or better nourishment than you would get from meat or dairy, at a much lower cost to both the wallet and the environment.
But “beans” is a broad grouping that we first must put into two categories: Old World (e.g., favas, chickpeas, black-eyed peas) and New World, like the red kidney bean featured here. A variety of Phaseolus vulgaris, it is a Peruvian native noted for its color, size and shape. Judging from its geographic spread, it also is a perfect accompaniment to rice.
Lolis Eric Elie, author of Treme: Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans, has identified Haiti, Cuba and New Orleans as three cultures where the dish is emblematic, and explains this as a consequence of the Haitian Revolution, when Haitians of all colors and social standing fled to Cuba and New Orleans.
A friend of Haitian extraction, Phil Gornail, tells me of a recipe for red kidney beans and rice his mother makes called diri kole ak pwa wouj, which translates from the Haitian Creole tongue as “rice stuck with — or glued to — beans.” New Orleans, where I come from, has been called “the northernmost Caribbean city” and, again no surprise, the dish is ubiquitous and just as dearly loved. That judgment could easily be extended to pretty much the rest of south Louisiana.
But food is about taste, and specific culture, and a soupcon of collective memory. A single, 1-pound bag of Camellia Red Kidney Beans (from a fourth-generation, family-owned New Orleans supplier) emphatically says one (make that two) things: 1) red beans and rice and 2) dinner on Monday.
Even within this ubiquity, the actual preparation of Louisiana red beans and rice is anything but agreed upon. A cherished moment occurs in Les Blank’s documentary Always for Pleasure, a loving look at Mardi Gras traditions. A New Orleans native, Irma Thomas, one of the city’s finest soul singers, divulges her secret for red beans and rice: “First, you need a large pot,” which, besides the red kidney beans and long grain white rice, is one of few ingredients common to most any recipe. Onions, for sure. Better yet, “the trinity” — onions, celery and bell pepper. Garlic for me, some folks maybe. Spices will vary (see the recipe note). Tomatoes? Tomato paste? Bacon, ham or sausage? I like using andouille sausage as it removes the need for spices beyond a couple of bay leaves. It all depends on who you ask, cher…
Back to that Monday date stamp: Even in tonier NOLA restaurants you’ll find many a lunch special built around the dish. The accepted myth is that on Monday (laundry day), a big ole pot of beans slow-cooked on the stovetop didn’t require a lot of minding and would provide a warm, filling meal for the family once chores were done.
Makes for a good story, but does it matter? Signing off (as New Orleans’s own Louis Armstrong did): “Red Beans and Ricely Yours.”
Red Beans & Rice
Makes about 2 quarts
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 pound red kidney beans, soaked, refrigerated overnight
- 1 pound andouille sausage (substitute kielbasa*) sliced into ¼-inch coins
- 2 large yellow onions, diced
- 2 to 3 ribs celery, sliced
- 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
- 6 to 8 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 3 bay leaves
- Salt and pepper
- Cooked long grain white rice, for serving
- Green onions, sliced for garnish at table
- Louisiana hot sauce (Tabasco or Crystal preferred)
1. In a large heavy pot, heat oil over medium heat. Brown sliced andouille; stir regularly to render fat. When browned, remove pot from heat; remove sausage with a slotted spoon, reserving it to a bowl.
2. Return pot to medium-high heat, adding more oil as needed. Add onions and sauté until soft. Add garlic and cook 3 to 5 minutes until fragrant. Add celery and bell pepper; cook stirring for another 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and stir to incorporate. Add bay leaves (and if using kielbasa, add additional seasoning as per note below); continue cooking for another 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Add beans and their soaking water and additional hot water as necessary to cover by 1½ inches. Bring to a medium boil for 10 to 15 minutes; lower heat to a simmer. Return sausage to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, checking the beans every 15 to 20 minutes. When beans are just beginning to get tender, season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook another 30 to 45 minutes until done. This is a perfect time to cook the rice. (Total cooking time is about 1 to 1½ hours.)
4. When beans are tender, remove 1 to 1½ cups of the cooked beans with some of the cooking liquid and mash with a potato masher or puree in a blender. Add back to the pot to thicken the broth. Keep warm. Serve individually over a mound of rice and garnish with sliced green onions. Season to personal taste with hot sauce. A simple green salad is a perfect accompaniment.
* Note: If substituting kielbasa, you’ll want to add the spices that andouille usually supplies: a mix of cayenne pepper, paprika, garlic and onion powder, and maybe some oregano and/or thyme. Recipes can be found online for Cajun or New Orleans Creole spice blends, and if you have a Louisiana connection, the Tony Chachere or Paul Prudhomme commercial brands will do. One to two teaspoons will do the trick.
