Puebla, a landlocked south-central Mexican state, is home to a culinary history that stretches to earliest Mesoamerica. But the Poblano (Pueblan) use of heritage ingredients there — corn, tomatoes, chiles, seeds, avocados, beans, squash — was distinctly impacted by the European influences, techniques and traditions that the earliest Spanish settlers (and later French) brought to the old New World.
As has been said: “Puebla is a place where you can devour the world, but it will be the world filtered through the Mexican kitchen.” In particular, the sauces familiar in most Mexican cooking — elaborate moles, nutty pipians and tangy adobos — would not exist in Puebla but for the cultural crossover.
Tinga is representative of this. The sauce, redolent of chiles, tomatoes, vinegar, onions, garlic and oregano, serves as the basis for a braise of chicken known as tinga de pollo, widely served as a filling for tacos, tostados, molletes and other street-food antojitos (“little cravings”).
While Mexican slang dictionaries translate tinga as “an argument,” “a quarrel,” “a dispute” or “an uproar,” which suggests a fiery, aggressive concoction, in practice slow-and-low cooking tempers the mellow heat of smoky chipotles in adobo. Tomatoes and vinegar add a tang and unexpected smoothness. Tingas of pork, beef, fish and shrimp show its versatility.
This recipe for tinga de frijoles — brined and tinga-braised large white beans — piqued my interest for other reasons: Brining was the real curiosity. Dried beans are soaked for 8 to 12 hours at room temperature in a salt-and-baking soda solution that breaks down pectins in the hard-skinned varieties called for here. That allows for better absorption of the cooking liquid, resulting in creamier, tastier beans.
As with other Mexican “soup-stews” (a handy Diana Kennedy designation), this tinga de frijoles is best served in a bowl — perhaps over Spanish rice, as shown — with greens dressed with a lime-crema dressing in the same bowl.
Garnish further with sliced avocado, radishes and cilantro, if you like. An extra dollop of crema and a basket of warm tortillas will quell any burgeoning uproar or dispute at the table.
Tinga de Frijoles
Adapted from Paola Briseño-González (via Rancho Gordo); serves 6 to 8
- 1 pound large dried white beans (royal corona, gigante/gigandes or large canellini), picked over and rinsed
- 3 tablespoons salt
- 1¾ teaspoon baking soda
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (avocado, olive, canola)
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
- 2 medium yellow onions, peeled, halved
and sliced thin - 4 cloves garlic, chopped
- 4 canned chipotles in adobo, chopped fine
- 28 ounces canned crushed tomatoes (Muir fire-roasted suggested)
- 1 quart chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, plus 1½ teaspoons
- ¾ teaspoon sugar
- ¼ cup Mexican crema (substitute crème fraîche)
- 4 cups greens (butter lettuce, little gems, baby romaine), torn or sliced into bite-sized pieces
- ½ cup cilantro leaves
- Zest and juice of one lime
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Warmed corn tortillas for serving
- Optional: Spanish rice, chopped avocado and/or sliced radishes
1. In a large bowl, cover beans with 2 quarts fresh water with 3 tablespoons salt and the baking soda; stir to dissolve. Soak beans at room temperature for 8 to 12 hours. Drain and rinse well under running water. Heat oil in a heavy 8-quart pot or Dutch oven over medium. Add onion and garlic, stirring often; cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add cumin and Mexican oregano; sweat about 2 minutes until fragrant. Add beans, chipotle, tomatoes, broth and 1½ cups fresh water; bring to a boil and adjust the heat to low for a gentle simmer.
2. Cover and cook, stirring until sauce turns a deep red and beans have cooked through (about 3 to 3½ hours). Test beans — they should be tender and creamy. Add sugar, cider vinegar and correct seasoning. Add ¼ to ½ cup to achieve a saucy, creamy consistency. Taste again and adjust seasoning. Keep warm.
3. Mix crema (or crème fraîche), lime zest and juice in a bowl. Season to taste with salt. In a separate bowl, toss greens with enough crema dressing to coat. Reserve.
4. Serve tinga de frijoles in shallow bowls alone or over Spanish rice. Top with some of the dressed greens and garnish with chopped avocado, sliced radishes, more crema sauce and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges and warm corn tortillas.
